
To the left: Laird Hamilton
Since I forgot last week to post, I basically am going to talk about pages 149-312 (aka the last half of the book). A great deal of what was covered in the past part of the book was based on surfing. I've never been surfing nor have I ever even meet one so this was all new to me. According to the book, surfs have strong bonds to one another, sort of like brothers. This is due in part because they share the same passion, and it's very dangerous and not very many people can relate. In the last part of the book, one of the surfers that the researchers have surrounded themselves with risks his life on a rouge wave, and almost dies. The book also speaks a lot about a man named Laird Hamilton. Apparently Laird is one of the best surfers in the world, and become an intricate part of the book. The final chapter, the narrator follows Laird through surfing a huge wave. It was pretty cool to be able to hear about what's going on from his perspective and feel like your doing it!
I can't say that I've learned a lot about the environment in the last chunk of my book, but I can say I've learned tons about surfing, good beaches and famous surfers than I ever thought I would know! I think surfing is understated, especially where we live. Although it's incredibly dangerous and you wont catch me on a surf board, these are the people who know the ocean. Maybe they don't have a marine biology degree, but they know more than most researchers about the subject because they see it everyday.
I think that this book was fantastic, I would recommend it for a good read simply because it was not only entertaining but also had good information. I've learned 1) The ocean is really changing because of global warming. 2) Waves are now easily reaching 75 feet because of this problem and 3) Surfers are crazy for trying to surf them! I totally have a different stance on why this is important because my fiance is in the Navy and as soon as I graduate I will be living on the ocean for the rest of my life. I think that it's scary that were sending sailors and anyone else on a boat that's only made to withstand 50 foot waves yet they're reaching over 100 feet on open seas. Also, with the ocean changing you never know what's going to happen to the land that it touches. Hurricanes are quickly becoming more prevalent due to global warming, and considering a lot of our U.S. cities are located near the ocean that will cause problems.
Overall, great book. Loved it.